First off let me explain about something scene modes, they are nothing magic. All that the scene modes are s the "P" mode with specific generic setting set for a specific scene. For example, for a landscape scene it will run a tighter aperture and will make the image a little sharper, for a portrait it will open the aperture up to reduce depth of field and reduce sharpness and saturation. We can do all this on our own, and more.
I started my photography in landscapes, black and white, and color. So most of the time I used Ilford Delta 100 (for black and white) or Fuji Velvia (for color). But when I shot people I usually grabbed Fuji Astia 100. When you shoot film, you choose that film for what you want to get out of it. If I were to shoot people on Velvia they would look horrible with red faces and way too much contrast, but Astia has reduced contrast and less saturation for smooth features. Using the PSAM modes you have virtually any film at your fingertips.
For black and white I shot most landscapes with Ilford Delta 100 and an orange filter. If you shoot with any of the scene modes, you are shooting color and that is it. Sure you can black and white any image after the fact, and probably get a decent result, but my goal when I shoot is to get the image straight out of the camera, and not waste time in photo editing software later. Shooting in PSAM I can do that, and can give my camera any film I want. I can go into the "Shooting" menu, "Optimize image" and select BW and I have black and white. I can even add some digital contrast filters on if I don't want to use real ones. When I want to do color, I have the "Custom" optimization already set up for it, color mode pumped up, saturation pumped up, and others to get as close to Velvia as possible.
Changing your "film" is just one piece that you can use to get anything you want straight out of the camera. And lets face it, if you are like me and go away for a 3 day weekend and come back with 2000 shots, the last thing you want to do is have to fiddle each one to make it usable. So now that you know why you want to, lets learn about PSAM!
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| Shot with my DroidX in cruddy light, it sucks, just here to show the selector. :-) |
PSAM are four settings:
- P - Program: This program selects a shutter speed and aperture based on exposure value and usually focal length. Generally, unless it can't help it due to lighting, it will stay a stop or two away from full open aperture and won't go tighter than f/11. Your camera may be different, this is just a generality.
- S - Shutter Preferred (Tv - Time Value for you Canon folks): In this mode you select the shutter speed to use and the camera, using a similar program to the Program mode, will select the aperture.
- A - Aperture Preferred (Av - Aperture Value for Canon folks): This mode is the opposite of Shutter Preferred. You select the aperture and the camera, using a similar program to the Program mode, will select the shutter.
- M - Manual: This is no program at all. You set the aperture, you set the shutter. Now, there is a twist here. If you have Auto ISO turned on, the camera will vary the ISO to maintain correct exposure for the selected shutter speed and aperture value. I have heard this called a bug, but I have found it very useful and will explain it later in this article.
So what do I shoot? 95% of the time my camera is in "P". When shooting landscapes, cars and bikes, or even fast action of people, it is the mode that just gets the job done. Unless there is an artistic need or a technical need for something else, I use "P".
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Camera: Nikon F4
Lens: 24mm f/2.8 AF-D
Focal Length: 24mm
Shutter: N/A
Aperture: N/A
ISO: 100
Flash: None
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When I am around water, that is when I move from "P". I love shooting water, it is one of my favorite subjects. And I love smooth flowing water. I love waterfalls that just look like silk. To get what I want I switch the camera to "S". This allows me to take my VR 18-55mm to 18mm and close to my subject and crank off a hand held 1sec exposure standing in the middle of a river. "S" is the way to go for this shot since my main concern is a slow shutter speed.
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Camera: Nikon D80
Lens: 70-210mm f/4-5.6mm AF-D
Focal Length: 145mm
Shutter: 1/80
Aperture: f/4.8
ISO: 100
Flash: SB-600
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The next time that I always differ from "P" is shooting portraits. I also change my "film" here to a much more subtle setting. When shooting portraits I want to get the depth of field just right. That means I want full control of the aperture, so "A" it is.
And the final differ is actually a different mode, "M", which is convenient for this article. I use this mode, with Auto ISO, to shoot my fiance's flag football games. Why you may ask? Well, I run an old 70-210mm AF-D when I am shooting these games and put myself in a position to have a full frame shot of the quarterback from the defensive side of the field at 210mm. This allows me to track the action as it comes up the field zooming from 210 down to 70mm. So to sufficiently stop the action and get decent sharp shots I want a 1/250sec shutter speed. Part two is that I want a fairly decent depth of field and being that I am running 210mm on the long end, I like to run it at f/11 if I can. Since Auto ISO will vary the ISO for me from 100-1600, I can just leave these set and go. If shooting in the early morning I do need to run a little more open aperture and a little slower shutter to maintain the ISO in range, so I just monitor the ISO as I go and then work the aperture and shutter towards where I want them as the sun comes up. For me, it is the only way to shoot football.
I hope this helps drive you to learn how to use these modes, properly used they can greatly improve your creativity.
Thanks for reading, and happy shooting!
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